ARackAbove Assembly Instructions | Freestanding Garage Storage

Watch assembly video here

Pre-Assembly: Space Check

Requirement: You need 50–60 inches of clear wall space on opposite sides of the garage to assemble safely and efficiently.

Step 1: Install Leveling Feet

Thread all leveling feet fully into the top and bottom of the following parts:

Vertical Legs: Both Internal and External sets.
Center Pole: Internal leg only (2-car units).

Quantity Check:

2-Car Unit: 9 feet total.
1-Car Unit: 8 feet total.

Note: Thread the feet in all the way, but do not tighten them against the leg tubing yet.

Step 2: Choose Your Location

Assemble ARackAbove between the garage door opener and the front wall. Never install it behind the opener.

Verify Your Workspace: In this zone, pick a spot that allows:

Garage Door Movement: No interference with the door tracks or travel.
Vehicle Access: Room for car doors to open fully.
Entry Access: Clear paths to house doors or closets.

Wall & Ceiling Conflicts:

Attic Access: It is okay to build over an attic hatch; items can be moved for access.
Wall Equipment: Electrical panels, solar batteries, or irrigation timers are not a problem.
The Benefit: Because the rack is freestanding and adjustable, you can move the lower cross-supports or shorten the rack width to keep this equipment accessible.

Step 3: Set Height for Both Vertical Legs

1. Measure and Pin Leg #1:

Stand the first leg in your chosen spot. Slide the top section up until the leveling foot touches the ceiling.
Ensure the leg is plumb (perfectly straight), then find the matching set of holes.
A Temporary Placeholder: Slide one 4-inch bolt through the holes. These pins are temporary and hold the leg height only until the frame is bolted together. Ensure the temporary bolt does not slide out when laying the leg down.

2. Repeat for Leg #2:

Move about 50 inches to the side (where the rack will end) and repeat the process for the second leg.
Important: Garage floors are rarely flat. Ensure both Vertical Leg Assemblies are pinned at the same hole position before laying them down. The 3" of adjustment in the top and bottom leveling feet will compensate for minor floor variations. If the hole positions do not match, the "H" assembly will be cockeyed, making it difficult to align the cross supports properly.

3. Position for the "H" Build:

Lay the second leg on the floor, 50 inches away from the first.
Ensure both legs are parallel and pointing the same way. You should now have a workspace ready to connect the cross supports.

Step 4: Build the "H" Assembly

In this step, you will connect the two legs to create a frame that looks like a giant letter "H".

1. Attach the Upper Support:

Place the support without pegboard holes between the legs at the very top.
Important: Ensure the smooth side faces upward.
Align it with the top two holes of each leg and insert your bolts.

2. Attach the Lower Support:

Place the support with pegboard holes (and the ⬆︎ arrow) about 5 feet up from the floor. Ensure the smooth side faces upward.
Service Access: If you have an electrical panel or solar battery on the wall, set this support higher or lower so you can access your equipment.

Bonus Storage: The Lower Cross Support is designed to accept standard pegboard accessories, providing extra space for hanging tools. Do not exceed 250 vertical pounds on this support.

3. The Hardware "Sandwich": For all 8 holes (4 top, 4 bottom), install the hardware in this order: Bolt ➔ Washer ➔ [Leg/Support] ➔ Washer ➔ Nut.

4. Square and Tighten:

Hand-Tighten First: Keep everything slightly loose until both supports are in place.
Final Tighten: Once the frame looks straight and square, use a 9/16” socket and wrench to tighten all 8 nuts.
Caution: Do not over-tighten. Aluminum can compress if you use too much force with power tools.

Step 5: Standing and Securing the Frame

Lift the Frame: Grasp the Lower Cross Support. Carefully lift and walk the H assembly into a vertical position. Place it exactly where you measured the ceiling earlier.

⚠️ CAUTION: Do not let go of the frame until you have verified it is stable. It can fall if not properly supported.

Level the Structure: Place a level on the Lower Cross Support. Turn the bottom leveling feet left or right until the cross support is perfectly level.
Close the Ceiling Gap: Look at the gap between the top feet and the ceiling.
Gap is 1 inch or less: Raise the bottom feet until the top feet touch the ceiling.
Gap is more than 1 inch: Raise the top leveling feet until they touch the ceiling, then use the bottom feet to finish leveling the assembly.

Tension and Secure: Once the feet touch the ceiling, use a wrench to turn the bottom leveling foot nut clockwise. Do Not Over Tighten.

Shake Test: Grasp the leg at shoulder height and firmly (not hard) shake it back and forth. If the top moves: Tighten the bottom foot another 2–3 half turns.
If solid: Repeat this for the second leg and verify that the assembly is level.

Note: Because garage floors are rarely flat, one leg may touch the ceiling before the other. Continue adjusting until both legs are firmly tensioned between the floor and ceiling. The legs should be snug and stable, not forced. Excessive tightening can damage drywall.

Step 6: Build and Align the Second "H"

Now, repeat the previous steps to build and stand your second "H" assembly. The goal is to ensure both frames are aligned and level with each other. The lower cross supports do not need to match in height — only the overall frame height and ceiling alignment must match.

1. Repeat the Build: Follow the instructions from Steps 1–5 to build, stand, and tension the second "H" frame.

2. Match the Heights: To ensure your shelf is level, both frames must sit at the same height from the ceiling.

Measure: On your first "H," measure the distance from the ceiling down to the top of the Upper Cross Support.
Adjust: Adjust the second "H" until its measurement is 1/2 inch or less of the first one.

Step 7: Align Frames and Set Shelf Height

1. Final Alignment: Make sure your two "H" frames are perfectly straight across from each other.

Measure: Pick a wall or a line in the concrete floor. Measure the distance from that line to each leg.
Adjust: Move the frames until the distances match. Mark the floor with a pencil if it helps.
Final Stability Check: Verify both frames are aligned and secure. Perform the "Shake Test" one last time. There should be zero movement at the ceiling. If a leg moves, tighten the bottom leveling foot.

2. Choose Your Height: Choose the height for your shelf.

The Rule: Set the shelf based on the tallest person in your home. You want enough room to walk under the rack safely (2-3”) but low enough to reach your stored items easily.

3. Attach the Brackets (Cradles) to the legs.

Position: Pick the same hole height on all four legs so the shelf stays level.
The Hardware Sandwich: Use the 4-inch bolts. Follow the same order: Bolt ➔ Washer ➔ [Leg/Bracket] ➔ Washer ➔ Nut.

4. Hand-Tighten Only:

Important: Tighten until the bolt tip is even with the outside of the nut., but keep them loose. The brackets need to be loose enough to freely wiggle so the shelf rails can drop into the "cradles" in the next step.

Step 8: Assemble and Set the Shelf Rails

1. Layout on the Floor: Lay out your parts: two outer rails (Fixed-External) and one inner rail (Sliding-Internal).

Slide: Push the inner rail into the first outer rail until about 1/3 of it is hidden.
Stretch: Slide the second outer rail onto the other end.
Match: Adjust the total length until it matches the distance between your two "H" assemblies.
Center: Make sure the two holes in the middle of the inner rail look evenly spaced.

2. Lift and Cradle: Lift one end of the rail and set it into the bracket (cradle) on the first frame. Move to the opposite side and lift the other end into its bracket cradle.

⚠️ IMPORTANT: Make sure the rail is inside the cradle before you let go. It must be secure so it doesn't slide out and fall.

3. Bolt the Ends:

Line up the holes at the ends of the rails with the holes in the brackets.
Use the 2-1/2" bolts and washers.
Keep them loose. Do not tighten yet.

4. Align the Center: Repeat this for the second long rail. Once both are up, they must match.

Count: Count the visible holes on the inner rails. They should be the same on both sides so the rack is perfectly centered.
Lock the Slide: Once aligned, put one 2-1/2" bolt through one of the two holes on the external rails. This stops any sliding of the internal rail.

Step 9: Attaching the Center Cross Tube

1. Verify Alignment: Inspect the middle of your two long rails. The two holes in the center of each rail must line up perfectly.

2. Position the Tube: Place the Center Cross Tube between the two rails so it lines up with those four holes. This tube is a structural bridge connecting the two rails.

3. Bolt and Tighten: Use the 2-1/2" bolts and washers to secure the tube.

Hardware Order: Bolt ➔ Washer ➔ Rail/Tube ➔ Washer ➔ Nut.
Tighten Now: Unlike the previous steps, you can go ahead and fully tighten these four bolts.

Step 10: Securing the Shelf Rails

Now that the center is locked, you need to bolt the other 4 holes in the external rails so they cannot slide back and forth.

1. Install the Bolts: Use the 2-1/2" bolts and washers. Place one bolt through every open hole where the tubes overlap.

There will be 8 bolts total for this step.
Hardware Order: Bolt ➔ Washer ➔ [Both Rails] ➔ Washer ➔ Nut.

3. Keep it Loose: Thread the nuts on by hand. Do not tighten them with tools yet. You want the rack to have a little "give" while we do the final inspection in the next step.

Step 11: Final Inspection and Tightening

1. The "Safety First" Check: Before you lock everything down, walk around the rack and confirm:

Tension: Are the "H" frames still rock-solid between the floor and ceiling? (Perform the "Shake Test" one last time).
Hardware: Does every single bolt have a washer on both sides?

2. Tighten Methodically: Using a 9/16” socket and wrench, tighten every nut and bolt on the entire unit.

The Pattern: Start on one side and move across to the other so you don't miss any.

3. Use Caution with Power Tools: If you are using an impact wrench or electric drill, set the torque to low.

The Reason: ARackAbove is made of high-quality aluminum. If you over-tighten with a power tool, you can "crush" or compress the tubing. Tighten until the connection is firm and the bolt is secure.

Step 12: Install the Center Support Leg

(Note: 2-Car Units only. If you have a 1-Car Unit, skip to Step 13.)

1. Attach to the Frame: Position the Center Support Leg (the one with two holes at the top) directly under the Center Cross Tube you installed in Step 9.

Align the holes and secure them using two 2" bolts and washers.
Tighten these now. The leg should hang securely from the frame.

2. Level the Shelf (Lift and Lock): The inner part of this leg slides up and down.

The Lift: Lift the middle of the rack until the long rails look level.
The Lock: Find the nearest matching holes in the leg and insert a 2" bolt to lock the height. Add the washer and nut.

3. Fine-Tuning: Step back and look at your rack from a distance.

If it’s not level: Move the locking bolt to a different hole.
For "Perfect" Leveling: Once the bolt is in, use a wrench to turn the leveling foot at the bottom of the center leg. This will slowly raise or lower the center until it is perfectly straight.

This is the final step!

Step 13. Laying The Decking

1. Position Yourself: Stand in between the horizontal rails at one end of the rack. Hold the 48” x 58” deck with the curved edges facing away from you.

2. Lift and Slide: Using both hands, lift and rest the deck on one of the rails. Push it forward until the end you are holding is in between the rails.

3. Seat the Deck: With your hands raised above your head, walk the decking back until both edges drop securely on each horizontal rail. Repeat for all shelves.

4. Trimming for Fit: If the decking is too wide or overlaps due to your garage width, trim a piece of decking as needed. Use bolt cutters or a hacksaw to cut the wire mesh for a proper fit.

⚠️ Safety & Loading Guide

Your ARackAbove is now ready for use! To keep your home and your gear safe, follow these essential loading rules:

The Golden Rules of Loading:

- Total Capacity: Never exceed 1,750 pounds total weight on the shelf.
- Lower Support Limit: The lower "H" cross support (the one with the pegboard holes) is for hanging tools. Do not exceed 250 pounds of vertical weight on each of these bars.
- Avoid the "See-Saw": Never load just the front or just one side of the rack.
- Balance the Load: Always distribute weight evenly. Load from front-to-back at the same time.
- Heavy Items First: Place your heaviest bins at the very ends of the rack, directly over the support brackets.

Important Usage Warnings:

Intended Use Only: Do not use the rack for anything other than overhead storage (no climbing, swinging, or using it as a engine lift).
Check The Tension: ARackAbove is floor supported and cannot fall, but for continued stability, periodically check that the leveling feet remain tight against the floor and ceiling, especially after the change of seasons.